Wednesday, May 4, 2011

bitten (hand), broken (camera), bummed (heart), and Bangalore

Well. Where to start? I'm not sure if I can comment on the election right now. I'm too angry, depressed and frustrated. So, lets talk about something else shall we?

Unfortunately, I hit some bad luck on my last two days in Goa. While playing with a puppy on the beach, she nipped my hand which just broke the skin and sent me into a panic about dying of rabies (googleing "dog bites India" is so not reassuring!) So, now I'm on a 5 needle rabies shots regimen for the next month which should be rather interesting. Thank god my Mum bought me Travel Insurance. I also, while trying to take a picture of myself with a wicked tan, managed to break my new(ish) camera by dropping it-serves me right for being vain I suppose. Honestly, I have the worst luck in the world when it comes to cameras! I believe this is digital camera number 5. Thankfully though, yesterday while in big city Bangalore, the fine people at Canon got her fixed and ready to shoot again for less than 20 bucks Cdn.

I did watch the royal wedding, 4 hours of it in fact, which made me irrationally happy and sentimental. It sent me into a "I want to get married and be a princess and wear Alexander McQueen" frenzie, but I think I'm over it now (quick: someone propose to me to see). I would just like to say that Kate Middleton's dress (both dresses) were so incredible. I read the details about them on the Royal Wedding website and am just so impressed. Check it out: http://www.officialroyalwedding2011.org/blog/2011/April/29/The-Wedding-Dress--Bridesmaids--Dresses-and-Pages--Uniforms
Fashion at its best. Pippa Middleton too, such a beauty. Sarah Ferguson's daughter's on the other hand? Ghastly. Proves that Money cannot buy taste! Oh, just one more thing: did you know that Kate did her own makeup? Impressive.

I left Palolem at 5:30am on the back of a motorcycle and took a local train from Canacona to Margao. On the train I met this smug Norwegian guy who had just been traveling in Bhutan and Mongolia which sounded amazing. He was crazy though, bragging about Norway being the most beautiful country in the world and saying that all Asian countries are the same, and luckily when I boarded the other longer train to take me Hospet, we "lost" each other. Taking the train inland through the province of Karnata was amazing. The landscape was incredibly and looked more like NZ than anywhere I'd been in India. I also experienced a few firsts on the train: an accordion player and a group of transvestites. Interesting stuff. Finally arriving in Hospet, I took a rickshaw to Hampi with 2 other single girl travelers: Lula from London and Kasha from Warsaw. We all made quick friends and stayed together at this cute guesthouse across the river for 1 dollar a night.

Hampi is incredible and by far the most beautiful place I've been in India. It feels like a different planet. Sort of like you've stepped onto the set of a Flintstones movie, or an old episode of Star Trek, with huge rock boulders and temple ruins all around. Its amazing. After getting there, I was so sad that I was only spending 1 day and night because it is most definitely the kind of place that you could hang out and relax for a week. While heading across the river to get accommodation, I ran into Goeran, the German guy I stayed with in Mumbai-such a small world!-and we met him later for dinner at the one restaurant open and all watched "The Bodyguard" on HBO (yes, very bizarre). The next morning, after going to a local doctor in a nearby village for my second rabies shot (all the children watched in amazement as he gave me the needle) I went to meet the girls for breakfast and sightseeing. As we were leaving the restaurant, I heard Pres. Obama's voice on a tv in the background and figured if they were showing him on Indian news early in the morning, something major must be happening, and as you all know, it was something major. I think its always so interesting to be in a foreign country when huge international events happen. Reading all about Bin Laden's capture/death in the Indian newspapers yesterday was pretty fascinating. India loves that he was caught in Pakistan because now they feel justified in their opinion that Pakistan harbours terrorists.

Anyway, the sightseeing was great. The main temple we went to had the elephant goddess of fortune named Lakshmi, and if you gave her 2 rupees she would bless you by swiping her trunk over your head. Except, that is, if you're white. Then it cost you 10 rupees! I couldn't believe that they had trained an elephant to be racist! I gave her 3 rupees, but was never blessed! Regardless, we shared a little love and I was happy with that because as I'm sure you know, I LOVE elephants. We also trekked out to some other ruined temples that reminded me a lot of Angkor Wat in Cambodia, very similar set up and structures, although not as old. It was pretty incredible to be wandering the ruins because we were the only people there as it is low tourist season because of the heat and the approaching monsoons.

Later in the day, something heartbreaking happened. I found a little puppy all by herself who was injured. She had something wrong with one of her back legs, I think maybe it had been run over, and had been abandoned by her mother. Obviously, this destroyed me. I tried everything to get this puppy help, but there wasn't much I could do as no one really wanted to help me. I did end up bringing her to a restaurant and gave her a bath and some milk, but then had to leave her where I found her. I almost took her with me on the train to Bangalore, but decided against it. It was heartbreaking. Such a helpless innocent little creature, and there was nothing I could do for her. It's like a lot of India-just nothing you can do to help. I cried and cried when I left her and made this random Indian guy on the road promise me that he would check on her tomorrow. I know there are millions of dogs in India, but this one just got to me. I couldn't bare the thought of her dying. Whew. Deep breath.

I boarded the train in Hospet and arrived in Bangalore, the silicone valley of India, and where the inventor of Hotmail comes from. This is where I found out the election results. Again, no comment, other than, the thought of returning to both Rob "fat fuck" Ford and Stephen "stuffed sausage" Harper makes me want to stay in India, and if you've been reading my blog, you know that I don't exactly love it here.
My cousin David has a friend, Pragati, who lives in Bangalore, so I met up with her and we hung out for the day which was awesome. It is so different navigating a city with an Indian. Pragati is an artist and she is preparing for a show at a gallery in Mumbai. It's too bad that the timing is off, and I won't be here for it! She just got married to her boyfriend of five years and when I asked her about the wedding, she told me they had 950 guests and it lasted for a whole weekend. OMG! Can you imagine greeting 950 people? Wild! I think it would be so fun to attend an Indian wedding. We ended up seeing a movie at the mall, "Source Code" which was actually pretty good, and then went through a "scary house" (ie haunted house) for 40 rupees which was hilarious. I didn't do any sightseeing which was actually fun, because it felt like I was just a normal person for a day, instead of a "tourist."

Last night I took what I think will be my last overnight train in India and am now in Cochin, Kerala, which is the southern most state in India (on the west side). I decided to risk it and ate dinner on the train (curry and chapati) and so far, I'm fine (knock on wood for no more Delhi Belly). I arrived at 5:30am this morning to pouring rain, a sure sign that the monsoons will arrive here soon. I had a bit of a meltdown on the street which I'm not proud of and will not share all the details of. There is something about being overtired in the early morning of this country that turns me into a hissy-fit throwing, crazy lunatic. After a bit of a cry, a very nice rickshaw driver took me to a homestay place for free and I had a much needed nap.

I just had an amazing meal at this little artist's cafe. French toast, iced coffee and fruit, including hands down the best mango I have ever tasted in my life. Un-real. It melted in my mouth. I think I will just walk around for the rest of the day and take in some of the sites. I am staying in Fort Cochin which is a really old area with a mix of different cultures, including an area with a synagogue that they call "Jew town" (awkward much?)
I think tomorrow I will get on a boat and cruise down the famous backwaters and go to an ashram for a few days-lord knows I could use a lifetime of meditation! I am headed back to Mumbai on a flight from Cochin a week from now (fingers crossed that it isn't cancelled b/c Air India pilots are striking, ugh) and will spend my last day in India perhaps taking in a Bollywood film before boarding a plane at 3am to go back to my second home, Kenya. Words cannot describe the excitement I have to touch down in Nairobi, take a cab to Java House for breakfast, and then hop on a matatu (14 passenger Nissan van) for a couple of hours to Nakuru and then finally to the small village of Kirengaro to see my close friend Peter, his family, and some of the children I met almost five years ago now.

I have cancelled my flight to Egypt (decided I don't need to put myself or my mother's nerves through another civil conflict) and am trying to figure out what to do with that extra week. I may stay in Kenya for longer, go to Turkey early, or catch a flight to Venice, Italy and visit my dear friend Anika who I met in NZ. I will keep you all posted. For those of you in Canada, keep your chins up about the sad and pathetic election results. Maybe one day, once I'm a lawyer, I can defeat the whole mess of a system and become Prime Minister? (Mandatory vegetarianism, free post secondary education, sterilization of the masses?) just a thought... 

1 comment:

  1. there is curiosity, fun and innocence in the writing, nice i liked it :)

    ReplyDelete